12. The scale of life.

Please visit the The Arts in Focus to obtain information about our 2014 Matopos Calendar - 

an initiative supporting rhino conservation in Zimbabwe.

As I sit in my son’s sailboat on Mtshelele dam in Matopos, a tiny insect reminiscent of a mayfly perches on the clear water amongst the lilies near me. It does not even create the tiniest of ripples on the surface of the water. I watch this little critter for an instant or two before it shoots off into its own vast world. Instinctively I lift my gaze to take in the entire scene around me. I look up at the massive granite rocks on the other side backed up by an almost endless rolling landscape of hills and mountains and once again I am struck by the scale of this place. Go up one more level from this tiny insect fulfilling her life on a tiny part of this relatively small reservoir of water and this little dam becomes as small as my mayfly. Above a fish-eagle calls and I look up at his world spanning an area that would probably make Matopos itself seem limited. At his level my mayfly is insignificant… or is it?

Scale is often a very difficult concept to integrate or grasp when challenged with a large variation of dimensions or distances, heights and depths. Although we see very well in three dimensions, that capacity often gets distorted in complex environments and visual confusion may set in. We easily loose our ability to judge the size of exceptionally large things, such as a vast expanse of dunes, or a massive mountain range… Sometimes I think most people just give up, and focus simply on the surface, because the deeper layers make the world too complex to comprehend. Matopos itself is not nearly as vast as the Kalahari or Namib deserts, or the Drakensberg. In terms of geographical phenomena Matopos is relatively small. But the vast array of dimensional variety one has to deal with in a short period of time or over a very short distance is astounding. This multidimensionality is probably one of the main reasons it has been declared a world heritage site! It’s simply amazing the way the place is put together.

Not only is the scale of the structural components enormous, the scale at which things happens here is immense! From minute, microscopic to massive mountain sized repetitions of the same general theme… There are only so many ways in which granite can be formed and only so many in which it can be eroded, and only so many ways in which it can be stacked or ordered. However, add to this the continuous scale from millimeters to centimeters all the way up to kilometers in pretty much all the combinations possible, then you have many things going on at the same time. And that is only when you contemplate the rocks! Add to this the multitude of insects, other invertebrates, small vertebrates, the amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals from smaller than my little mayfly friend on his patch of lilies all the way to white and black rhinos that you may see from time to time… All of these can be seen in context when you place them into their little boxes on the food chain and tied together by their roles in the complex ecology of the natural world. Add to this the plant life from the lower forms (such as my beloved lichen and mosses, sticking it out in the harshest of environments in this place but contributing massively by pioneering new habitats and painting this enigmatic place with brilliant colors millimeter by millimeter per year) to the grasses and the more advanced plants all the way to the large trees. Some acacias bind life-giving nitrogen while others increase the structural world by supporting eagles’ nests and even the tiny flycatchers and the ever audible babblers. Just like the lichen, but much more noisily, they paint my mind with beautiful colors… All of these are incredibly interconnected and in my mind if you change something here, the effects can be seen elsewhere, if not today or tomorrow then somewhere in the future in the complex interactions that make up this incredible beast. Thus, the structural scale also determines the scale of the dynamics and processes at play here.

Then, as I begin to think that I have a vague hold on the construct of this place - from the tiny organisms that make up a single lichen to the rock they established themselves on to the hill itself, the valley between them and the subsequent valleys - just then in the distance the thunder announces another dimension to this world. I lie in my tent and watch as the immense lightning bolts crash through the rocks and echo in the valleys. I sit up and watch as the world braces itself for the next thunderous attack. I think of my delicate mayfly and I think of my vibrant lichens holding on to those rocks and those rocks holding on to larger ones! We have to keep this place safe, all places like these… from the lichens and the mayflies to the rhinos, the rocks and the little dam all the way up to the lightning, as well as the processes that renders these incredible components a functional system.

Just then a bolt of light floods the plains in glorious light and for a moment I see my world as if in the light of day. For that fleeting moment, like the flash of my own camera, this world is etched into my mind - a still image of my life. The clouds, where the lightning originated, the earth accepting it, exchanging their electric loads and I think of my soil science professor and the nitrogen released by the bolt of energy. I think of the role of the fresh water finding its way into the soil with the vital nutrients it contains. I think of them finding their ways into the stream and into the dam in which we will sail again tomorrow.

11. Matobo’s complex mind.

Please visit the The Arts in Focus to obtain information about our 2014 Matopos Calendar - 

an initiative supporting rhino conservation in Zimbabwe.

Matobo’s complex mind.

Often when I sit on a high vantage point overlooking Matobo, I look at the complex geomorphology and I think that this is what the human mind looks like… A multidimensional space in which magic happens all the time. With ‘looks like’ I am actually referring to the interplay between form and function.  This is where structure defines function at many scales or levels. Cast a lazy eye over Matobo from a high vantage point, then squint so as to blur the scene, get it all out of focus and you will begin to see the patterns, the larger structure, repeating itself over the landscape into a pleasant predictability like good music. Within this structure, lies its function. But you will only see the function when you engage with it at a lower level… and over a longer period or time. In science we have learnt a lot about structure and function… the two concepts teaching us about the other. Look at structure and you may be able to predict function. Understand the function and you may be able to predict the structure. The brain probably functions like Matobo because the structure and the function of these complex environments are closely linked.

The clouds and the rocks playing their games.

Let's look at memory for instance… those streams have been there for eons… they may not channel water all the time, but the structure is there and the structure defines the function.  So, with or without the precious water, we still define and recognize the specific structure as a “stream” or “dry river bed”, although there is no stream of water flowing. Although the structure may actually change over the time, it is relatively stable, but the point is, it is always visible. Function may only be evident periodically when we see the water flow. Yet the water which so obediently flows within the boundaries of those streams have probably never been there before… they don’t necessarily know the way,  yet they obey, they observe the rules and the water will always flow within the same defined system of channels…. Over and over, season after season the rules of the system will be followed.  Such are the thoughts in the human mind… the neurons and the millions interconnection between them establishes the structure, through learning and then knowing the thoughts are channeled through known pathways, strengthening them, reinforcing the interplay between structure and function… they flow through channels carved from the memory of your mind, flowing in known patterns and generating predictable feelings, actions and reactions… The way it should be, the way it has always been.

Tiny gullies in granite rocks...
millions of years of chemical and physical change.

Similarly, the cycles of annual grasses reminds me of my own thoughts. Seeds lie dormant and then they germinate all at once, triggered by some stimulus.  Some die young, but others establish and grow, produce luscious green biomass, then set seed and senesce, mimicking the cyclic nature of our thoughts and even our lives, at a much higher level.  Some knowledge or information may not be upfront in our conscious minds, they may not be on the surface all the time, but when needed they can be brought back, they can germinate from deep within the subconscious mind.  Like riding a bicycle after many years, or remembering a poem or a song from a long time, suddenly it''s all there again… they have been there all the time. From the dark rich soil of the valleys the grass will grow when the rains fall upon them. Similarly, our minds will dig up the old answers and emotions… When triggered, the structure of our brain will illicit the response, and perform its function… the thoughts will be channeled from small trickles of water, into little streams and rivulets and when they all come together, they merge into raging torrents. The power of the mind is almost unlimited and collectively it can change the world!

Tiny streams converge, just as the branches of trees
split up into smaller ones... 

From my vantage point I also see something else. In many places and at many scales you can clearly see how the ecosystem heals itself. Often the structure is altered, from small scars where an eland raked his horns against a tree, gum is secreted to cover and heal the wounds in the bark, or after larger scale and major calamities; through fire or drought, the ox drawn plough or small scale mining, what ever is the structure, and together with it, the function is compromised. Eventually, the veld will recover itself, literally and figuratively.  The first layer consists of annual grasses and soft forbs, pioneers, like those people who first settled here… opening up the place for the next generation to settle and establish themselves. While it is far clearer to see in the real world where bark heals, where moss and lichens covers vehicle tracks on rock surfaces, it's less visible in the mind, but it is just as important, if not more - the process of healing and recovering… the functioning of one's mind. As the mind is controlled by neurons and impulses, millions of them, independently they synchronize their efforts following known courses, to ease the pain, dilute anxiety and soothe sadness, to bring back balance and eventually re-establishing happiness and expected functionality. 

Placing yourself on top of these rocks is an amazing feeling,
leaving you feeling small, yet its exhilarating beyond comprehension.

As I look over Matobo with a squinted blurry eye, I try to decipher the relationship between form and function and using it to analyze my own confused mind I learn a lot. I’ve learnt that you need to understand that the water will find the little streams, they will adhere to the laws of this world and if you don’t interfere too much they will find their way to the greater rivers and will serve their purpose.  I have learnt that the functional ecosystem can heal itself from the leaves picked off by the giraffe or even the elaborate middens of the white rhinos may impact locally but heal in general through the increased cycling of dung and nutrients. The pioneers will come and prepare the land for the next generation of vegetation which will increase the functionality and productivity of the system. These things happen because it is the way of nature if we’ve not knocked it out of its orbit too far. So I actively use Matobo as the ecological inspiration to the spiritual maintenance of my own mind. The most important lesson is a simple one, trust - just trust that the normal processes will take a hold of itself and it will accrue like the water in the streams and the smallest of seeds germinating together to create new life from the rich dark soils. Trust that the scale at which the small things accrue into wide landscape scale processes will control the negative and the unhealthy. Trust that where it can not correct the wrong or rebalance the system, it will at least heal the wounds.

Soft light on the rocks and vegetation in the late afternoon makes for a lovely soft mood....

The different layers in this photograph reminds me
of the pages of  a book, they are all similar,
but tells different parts of the same story.

The colors of these rocks are water stained patterns
displaying Matobo's passion for art! ,-) 

Each rock placed where they belong -
like pieces on a chess board.

Layers upon layers... like thoughts in the human mind,
they fade with distance.

Squint your eyes on this little scene and it becomes a massive
landscape with ridges and valleys and clumps of forest...

The patterns in the distance makes me think of the patterns
you find in music or poetry or song... 

Its almost impossible to capture the complexity of this place,
and its totally impossible to capture the scale of the place. 

I have posted this photo in the last blog too - here is a different rendition.
(I am not posting it again 'cause I think its good photo,
its more cause this is a particularly special place.)

I love the way the paper thin bark peals off
the stems of these trees. It reminds me of
the layers of thoughts and memories of the past... 

10. Anchors

A peaceful sunset near Nswatugi Cave.

Please visit the The Arts in Focus to obtain information about our 2014 Matopos Calendar - 

an initiative supporting rhino conservation in Zimbabwe.

While in the Seychelles, I spent some time aboard an assortment of seafaring vessels studying their anchors. Like the rudder of a boat, the anchor is but a fraction of the boat’s entire make-up, but it serves an immense role! While the rudder is also a relatively small component it is almost in constant use while the ship is moving. The anchor on the other side (also literally!!) is only needed from time to time. So most of the time the anchor is an unused component, stashed away… But when needed, it is critical beyond any doubt. Without it, or when it fails, there is normally a major catastrophe as ships may run ashore, either beached, stuck in sand or smashed to timber on the rocks…

A see of rocks.

Many words in current daily use are based on their original and practical form, but now used in a figurative sense to convey the importance of its practical and often crucial meaning. So today we use the word anchor in various contexts, all based on the notion that the anchor ties, moor or tethers the vessel to the sea bottom in order to prevent the boat from drifting or running ashore. So today, journalists anchor television programs; maintaining stability and purpose, and centering discussions around the focal point, or we say that many practical applications are anchored in sound theory! These phrases have absolutely nothing to do with ships and chains and anchors, but we immediately understand the meaning and the value of the word in the specific context.

I love the way the clouds and the granite play
their own little games.

So Matobo is my anchor. Its my symbolic link not only to the physical place where I live, but also to the space in my mind within which I live and where I am happy. When I am near it, as when I sit in my office and I can look out over the hills, I am content and know that I will not run onto some emotional rocky shore… Matobo is a good place to use as an internal anchor. He is a sound being, generous as I have described before (Geo- Anthropomorphism), strong and sensible, a creature able to guide the inner being onto reliable roads culminating into incredible journeys. Its a good place to be, anchored in such wisdom and magnificence.

Massive!

The other side of it however bothers me from time to time. Will this place ever let go of me? See, the functioning of an anchor is based largely on trust. We constantly drop anchors into deep and dark waters. Upon mooring your ship in an unknown place, the captain has none or very little knowledge of the structure or make-up of the ocean floor! You drop the anchor and you may struggle to find a good stronghold, so you keep testing it until you are sure and secure. At times the sea may refuse to release your anchor. It may get stuck and sailors may be unable to weigh the anchor. So you need to trust that the anchor will do its job, but also need to trust that it will be released when required.  There is a part of me that fears this, that Matobo may not release its hold on me again. That it will involuntarily keep me tethered to this place in my mind. I may not be able to rid myself from his influence. Matobo may be my eternal anchorage. But for now, I trust. I am here and I am anchored in good faith.

While its nice to meander along, there are great rewards
when climbing a large dwala... the scenes are magnificent!

A "dwala" or massive monolith in the shape of an amphitheater.

The scale at which things happened here defies logic.

Matobo harbored many people, these bushman or San paintings illustrate
their incredible artistic flair and intimate knowledge of the area.

These are my favorites, gentle graceful giraffe. I can imagine this artist
observing his subjects from the same ghommos/hills
where I now photograph from.

Many a photographic text suggests to keep things simple,
well in Matopos its almost impossible!

Petrified guards still watch over the vast expanse of this wonderland.

As I have indicated before - I am fascinated and often surprised
to see where some of these tree established themselves.

You just have to love these little guys, extravagant and determined -
taking full advantage of the options evolution granted them! 

9. The way we look and the way we see

Not so long ago I watched an old lady reading her book in the sunny part of the departure lounge. She was reading, then stopped, took her glasses off, reflected - a faint smile occurred in her eyes - she paged back and re-read a passage, took the water bottle from her lap, opened it, held it up to her face, just to put it down and close it without drinking… She was engaged in her book. The following weekend, I saw a man sitting on a rock in Matobo going through the same motions - yet he had no book in his hands.. He was staring over Matobo, reading and thinking and reflecting… drinking it in like the old lady in the sunny corner of the departure lounge.

Sometimes bad weather makes good photos...

Look, and thou shall see… Its a basic principle of observation, yet so few of us actually practice this level of observation. A man whom I trusted and respected once said to me, “Stopping at what you see at first will leave your eyes unsatisfied and your mind a dull place filled with the mundane. Always look for more - go beyond the obvious - train your eyes and your mind never to be satisfied with what you see the first or second times.” Like the athlete becoming more efficient and elegant at his or her game, the eye can reach the same level of efficiency, and as it is for the athlete, it can be extremely rewarding. Seeing more will make your life that much more full and satisfying.

The places where trees root themselves to the rock
 defies not only gravity but also logic.

Previously I wrote about the components of the system, the transitions and understanding the larger whole. To really see, you need to consider these factors, look again at what you are looking at, break it down into its components, the individual legos of the world, then see how they constitute a larger whole, see how they transition from the one to the other… in both space and time. Then when you are adept at doing this, look for the interactions and dynamics. One simple method to start is to look at the way water flows through the system.

The first major rains for the year trapped us in a cave today,
the wait for better light was worth it.

In this complex world - you will every now and again find a gem, something really worth exploring further. That is a good time to focus, and isolate – to explore the detail. Break the world down in the sub-systems, components, compounds and aggregations. Contemplate the scales, the circles within the circles until you get to the basis of it all. Then think about how it all works together. Like the way a Commiphora or some other hardy tree finds a way to grow in the crevices between rocks, high above the ground. Or the way a rock has been balancing on another for millennia! Or, go deeper, simply look at a tree, in its surroundings, then isolate the tree, break it down into the different structures that makes a tree a tree, the trunk, branches, bark, the way the branches divide into a larger picture and not just the middle eye-level mundane world we normally stare at through the car window… See the larger picture, then from this select the elements worthy of closer inspection, but again look beyond the obvious. Keep searching even when what you see is pleasing. Read your world like you read a good book.

Long exposure using a big stopper... need to work on this....

Amazing colors on the granite rocks...

Some rocks remain exactly where they were formed...

Every crack and crevice is a micro-habitat,
to be used by plants or lizards....

Steady as a rock!

After fire and rain...  green green grass.

Trapped in our shelter... the bush is beautiful.